I use Neutron on my HD600 and it sounds like an HD650 with just four control bands (although with variable Q and curve types).
Personally though if you need that many bands of control it's either your headphones/speakers just suck or you don't really like their sound (ie too many peaks to flatten and/or too many dips to fill), or what you need is Q factor control or curve type (ie you're trying to flattena plateau or ridge, or trying to reclaim the sea). Or you can just go with the Monolith up there that only has a 5band EQ.
#Car equalizer with usb software#
Personally it's more trouble than it's worth (I'd do it, but mostly because I'm into car audio and might conceivably have an older outdated processor that I can use at home after upgrading what's in my car) for home use not to mention software EQ running on a fullblown computer has more infinite settings on the center freq (and more depending on the app) by virtue of it being software running on a fullblown computer as opposed to a DSP chip that has to run off a limited UI, like a 1DIN remote that on newer cars will replace the utility pocket (because the receiver isn't a 1DIN unit) or as in with my ///////ALPINE HE660, just hooking up a laptop, tune it parked, drive around, figure out I didn't set the bass to compensate for tyre noise, spend another weekend with the laptop hooked up to tune the bass up, drive it around to test, tune it again. You'd have to hook them up to an amplifier then get another amplifier though because the cheap ones today were the ones that came out mid-2000s for cars that can't get their receivers ripped out and tablets weren't cheap then. Some might not even have a default fullrange output mode and you basically just have to set the bandpass crossover on the midrange or midwoofer output to basically ultrasonic and subsonic filters.if they even allow for cut offs that high or low on those frequencies. One tip: make sure it's on fullrange because some of these might be set to full-on DSP mode ie separate crossover+time delay profiles on each tweeter, midrange, midwoofer, and subwoofer outputs. With 10band EQ? Look around in a car audio forum and try getting a 12V power supply for it.
#Car equalizer with usb android#
If you use Android or iOS there's Neutron Music Player with a 10-band parametric EQ that can vary Q-factor and curve type (something you can only mimic on car DSPs using analogue controls, ie, instead of applying a flat EQ boost or cut above or below the chosen center freq, you boost the preamp signal to the sub or cut the preamp signal to the tweeters relative to the midrange), but the limitation on Neutron is that it is not a global EQ app and only works on the files it plays.
#Car equalizer with usb Pc#
Some do take USB, which is why many replace receivers with USB inputs (that don't take FLAC) and CD drives with a tablet (that can handle FLAC and streaming services) with some kind of custom panel, but those DSP units are fairly new and you won't get them for anywhere near $200.īesides if you're already using a PC anyway you might as well get software EQ on the PC itself. That's a bit of a problem since running software EQ will require having not just a DAC chip but a DSP chip, ie a purpose-built CPU that will run DSP, and then have some kind of interface on it.Īnd for $200 that's sort of impossible short of getting a used car audio DSP that has become outdated and may not have the inputs you need (ie, outdated), like how most separate DSP units only interface with the source unit via a dedicated system for the manufacturer's own CDPs or music servers, or take only high level inputs to integrate with car audio systems where the receiver unit (in a car that means the disc player and USB, not a DSP-DAC-multichannel amp unit as in HT) getting ripped out of the car has too many headaches and customization requirements let alone losing certain features that may have come with that unit like GPS.
0 kommentar(er)
